Many years ago I wrote an Article on HOW TO BUILD A STASIS TUBE in MODELERS RESOURCE. Im returning to the project to refresh my tube that has been beat up in my garage, and make a new one entirely.
If you have an interest in this project, this will give you an idea on what exactly is involved in making a stasis tube.
Im usually working on at least 3 different things at once. However, when I get a project that someone is paying me to do, I try and focus so I can get it out quickly. When I was hired to build a STASIS TUBE for a client. I decided to make a "work diary" so he could keep track of my progress. He also has allowed me to share it with everyone.
I will probably re-publish my HOT TO BUILD A TUBE online at somepoint and incorporate this page into it, but for now I will just refer you back to the original article I did in MODELERS RESOURCE.
If you have any questions, just drop me a line
Frank
Good God. What was I thinking? These things are a royal pain in the ass to make. But, someone who wants one so off to work I go! Thats a picture of the first 3 I made some years ago. I told myself, if I ever made more, I want a picture of them all together!
The Tube arrives like this, pretty plain actually. What isnt shown is the translucent bottom that has been professionally glued on. The Gray PVC is also just taped on. There isn't much to do! Which is WHY everyone is disappointed when they buy them from the PLASTIC PLACE thinking they are getting a REVELL KIT with all the parts and HAND HOLDING INSTRUCTIONS!
...Just a a LITTLE more work to it!
Which is WHY Ill start on the hard stuff! Now, where is that HUGGER MOLD???
Oh Wow, one of my early molds. Ewwwww! This is gonna be interesting! Mold was in good shape for the most part. I had the usual seam line issues on the BLADDERs, but the tail stub will need to be resculpted. I could get a HALCYON knock off (Tsukada) of the Face hugger, but they remolded a HALCYON so it looks smaller. I also like the fact that a RESIN HUGGER doesnt FLOAT.
The Casting of the Hugger body. The mold made ONE CASTING, then DIED. The seamline here on the bladder is terrible to look at, but really not that bad to fix. I have an OLDER BODY casting from whan the mold was fresh as a back up and reference. I will probably build both huggers so I have two to chose from for the client. If Im not happy with how it looks, the client wont be either so I go by my standards to try and do the best job I can.
Fingers ddnt come out that great either. Good thing I love a challenge! When Im done with them, there will be no seam line!
I HOPE!
Tail mold, notice its STRAIGHT! Wait til you see what I do with it!
Tail mold with fresh casting still in it. I have to pull the tail out while its soft, but not TOO soft that it doesnt distort. Here is another reason why I love working with RESIN and not the vinyl model. The tail on the Model kit is in 4 pieces, and just does not bend very well. My personal Hugger is a vinyl model, and even though Dean did an amazing job with it, you can see the tail's sections. Check out the pic below to see what you can get away with in resin
Tail EXPERTLY (haha) taped up after quickly pulling from the mold. You could NEVER DO THIS with the vinyl one, your seams would split, because there really isn't anything that glues vinyl together thats worth a shit.
Here you see the rough trimmed parts of the hugger. Notice how cool the tail looks! It came out great! Yeah,, try that with the VINYL ONE!
I had a mold of my control box, which is a GOOD thing, because scratch building the real one SUCKED! The Mold was Old and was made with GI 1000 Rubber, which over time gets very fragile. (Note to you folks who use it!) I had a fiberglass casting of the box, which didnt come out so well. So, I tried a new method I have been using on the XWING BODIES. Im gonna spray primer into the mold, coat with resin, then back fill with SILPAK's TROWEL-ON-60, which is really amazing shit. Its actually used as MOTHER MOLD Jackets, in fact, thats TROWEL ON paint over the top of the BOX Mold for REINFORCEMENT as that mold was original back with PLASTER that broke.
Here you see the the control box mold that has been PRIMERED, yes, PRIMERED, then painted with resin.
The same box with the TROWEL-ON painted over the STILL TACKY resin. Even though its RESIN To RESIN, and you get that chemical bond, the TACKY surface will also give you a MECHANICAL/PHYSICAL Bond as well.
WALLA! Out of the mold and its ALREADY PRIMERED!
If you want more info on TROWELL-ON call Jerry at Silpak in Pomona. They have other locations also. The one I go to is Silpak, 470 E Bonita Pomona, CA 91767 · (909) 625-0056
I hate SEAM LINES. You can FILL with putty, and sand, but you lose detail. SO I make sure I elimiate them by th TRENCH METHOD! Yes, I make them better, by making them worse. I dremel them out, fill with EPOXY putty, and resculpt the skin texture and wrinkles. Here are three examples, TRENCHED, PUTTIED, and PRIMERED. The Primered one still needs some touch up. TIme consuming, but worth the effort as they will look great when they are done. Notice the resin finger nails have been removed? Im gonna try buying and installing fake ones from the beauty store. I think Ill take one of my painted huggers with me just to FREAK EM OUT!
Oh you NASTY little thing,.....
HUGGER CIRCUMCISION! This is actually illegal in some countries.
CONGRATS! Its now a BOY! Notice the nasty seam lines are puttied. The tail stub is also resculpted, picture doesnt show the resculpted wrinkles very well.
I tired to use Fake Human Finger nails, but had poor results. So I replaced the nails with Putty, and will paint them with a couple of layers of translucent white to get the effect I wanted. I might regroup and try an different method for the second hugger. However, it will not be with human nails. They do not curve enough. Im thinking casting solid ones in translucent resin.
Getting there. Notice the pins in the fingers?
Ok..thats a bit more like it! Everything GRAY has been resculpted with epoxy putty. Notice how nice the Fingers mesh into the body. Tried to go for a more natural "Im not a stiff vinyl model look"
There is a JOKE in this picture somewhere! Reminds me of my first Flight Physical! I poured resin into the tail section, then inserted the cut bolt. I used Epoxy putty and JB Weld to attach it to the Body. Pretty strong now!
Here is my original center. Its made from Styrene, and not perfectly round and Molding it is gonna be a pain because its HALLOW. I have to pack it with CLAY, or make another master.
See the underside of the above center piece. Notice the Styrene to reinforce the Hook.
I decide to make a new one. Its One Inch thick and Just under 9 and 3/4 in diameter .
Sealed with KILZ, primered and puttied. I have also notched where the traingles will be cut out.
Here is the top, the bottom has been notched. It was about time to start on rest of the tube.
Sanded with 220 grit to give it a good tooth for the paint.
Here is what it looks primered. Notice the two cans. I sanded, washed, then primered with BULLDOG PAINT ADHESIVE. THEN I primered with an automotice heavy fill primer.
Sealed with KILZ, primered and puttied. I have also notched where the traingles will be cut out.
Here is the bottom with the One inch styrene strip about to be glued on.
Here is the bottom glued together and seam puttied.
Here is the bottom all primered.
More soon!!
About Me
I'm a model builder/mold making hobbiest who has on occasion worked for various FX shops, or done private consignment work for clients in between corporate employment, or on free time respectively. I have worked for Global Effects (who hasnt? haha), Steve Johnson's FX, MASTER REPLICAS, Dave Lowe Designs, and various private individuals. I have been building models since I was 8, and Im self taught mold maker familiar with urethane, and polyester products. I can also do some electrical, I cant design chips, but I can wire anything else for lighting. I have a college degree, and military experience, which means I can learn quick and follow directions. If you need help, and think I could be of service, or have a question regarding the work in the photos, please give me a call.